Tuesday, May 5, 2015

Enchanted April - Part One

There is a movie from the nineties about a group of English women who are run almost to the ground by their gloomy lives.  But when one of them sees an advertisement in the newspaper for an Italian villa, she decides to leave darkness behind and head for warmth and sunshine, and she finds three others to share expenses. Their lives are changed by the soft beauty of the place.  My husband and I recently returned from a short cruise on Holland America's Eurodam that began in Barcelona, Spain, and covered much of the Italian Riviera, including Castle Brown in Portofino, the setting for the film Enchanted April.  I cannot resist sharing some of my photographs from the trip.

My dear husband is of the opinion that one should spend all his or her time actually looking at scenery, people, artwork.  But ever since I was old enough to hold a Brownie camera I have loved taking pictures.  On a cruise like ours that zips from place to place in a whirlwind, I find that my photos allow me to slow down and savor what I saw, remember it, think about it.  Dream about returning. I love my photos.

We arrived in Barcelona a couple days early so that any delays would not jeopardize our embarking on the ship on time, and also to rest a little and sight see. This photo was taken in our hotel room, the Hotel Indigo.  Immediately I could see that in this city style is important.  There is color, pattern, design, everywhere.  This graphic suggests the organic forms of the architect Antoni Gaudi, whose buildings are the epitome of Catalan Modernism style.

                           La Predrera, a Barcelona apartment building designed by Gaudi.

        La Sagrada Familia cathedral, also designed by Gaudi, and still under construction.

Gaudi designed all sorts of elaborate, almost surreal looking buildings, but our time was short. And certainly there is pattern and beautiful design everywhere - from the sidewalks under foot, to public sculpture to tile work and mosaics in building old and new.

 The old Cathedral of Barcelona, which is beautiful inside and out, and is surrounded by public art.

                Book art, spotted in a shop window in the old Gothic Quarter of Barcelona.

This is the old bull ring of Barcelona, with magnificent tile work all round.  Bull fighting has been banned in Catalonia, so now this structure has been converted into a shopping mall.

Barcelona has lots and lots of graffiti, but the city seems to have embraced it as public art, and many of the walls and metal security doors that secure shops are spray painted.  I saw this "Bye Bye Barcelona" image in several places and wondered about it.  It turns out this is an ad for a documentary available on YouTube with the same name about how tourism is changing the city.  Not everyone is happy about the thousands of foreign tourists who visit every year.

And it isn't just the shops, museums or architecture that is appealing here.  The city seems well planned, with wide streets, parks, fountains, bicycle and scooter lanes, and a tram system. 

There seems to be plenty of green spaces, park benches, places to take walks with family or dogs. The men in the lower photo were playing  an enthusiastic game of Bocce Ball in a park.

We saw as much as our jet lagged selves could in about a day and a half, both on foot and on an open topped bus tour, but playing tourist is hungry and thirsty work.  Luckily the city is filled with shops that sell small plates of food to be shared called tapas.  This is an example of one of our explorations of tapas. We could eat something different every day for years and never try everything that is available.  So little time, so many tapas...

This is only a little taste of what we saw in Barcelona.  Later I'll share some photos from Italy.

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

Mother and Daughter

For the past few days I've been working on a six by six inch canvas for a fund raiser for the Hardy Gallery in Door county.  The event is called the Community Mosaic Project.  The Artists Guild art supply store in Sturgeon Bay supplies the tiny canvases free, then volunteers each paint one.  All submitted canvases are hung at the gallery and people buy one for about $30.  Thing is, they can't pick or choose.  They get what they get. 

I picked up my blank canvas at the store last week, as well an assortment of other goodies I decided I had to have - some textured rice papers, a delicious red TomBow pen.  Then I thought about what I might paint for the project.

I finally settled on doing a small version of what I've been doing all winter, which is adhering wallpaper to canvas and then painting people based on vintage photographs I find in second hand stores.

6x6 inches, oil on wallpaper

I remember finding the little black and white snapshot of these two women, who I imagine as mother and daughter, in an antique mall in Lake Geneva.  I used one piece of patterned paper in the background, seen mostly clearly in the areas to the right of the figures and below their feet.  But the same pattern is apparent in the standing woman's dress, and to a lesser extent in the siding behind them.  The pattern unifies the painting.  There is something warm and inviting in the smiles and close postures of the woman.

Now they just need to dry well and then they can be varnished and sent off.  Maybe they will bring a smile to their new owner.

Saturday, April 4, 2015

On the Road to BS Corner

This week I did a "flash" trip north to visit my aunt in Algoma and my brother and sister-in-law near Baileys Harbor.  The weather was good, and I wanted to break winter routine and get out of the house for a few days.  I also wanted to drop off a couple miniature paintings with my aunt's neighbor, who will deliver them to the gallery owner who wants them for an upcoming show.  And, we are out of smoked fish, and I needed to visit Bearcats to restock.

This early in the season very few tourist places like galleries and custard stands are open yet, especially midweek, so when I made it to Door county, there weren't many distractions.  Sandy and I drove to Sister Bay to see if the Door County Creamery was open, but no luck there.  Then I remembered that her husband had talked enthusiastically about a nearby family who has a maple syrup operation. Could we visit?


This was the first time I ever saw a real sugar shack outside of a magazine article or in a book.  Louis and Betty Sohns have a farm with a shed dedicated to processing maple sap.  According to Louis, he has been involved in making maple syrup since he was a child, tapping trees and hauling the sap by cart to his neighbor, Bertha Reinhard.  He'd haul the sap, and then later take back home the finished syrup.  Later on he worked with them, learning the craft of making syrup, and now the WW II vet has a sophisticated operation, tapping over 800 maple trees each spring.  His father made syrup for just the family, but Louis learned commercial production from the Reinhards.  He and his son and daughter sell maple syrup to a list of dedicated customers, including my brother and sister-in-law.  Sohns told us it takes 40 gallons of sap to make a gallon of syrup.

No photograph or written description can do justice to the experience of being in Sohns' sugar shack.  There is the scent of the wood burning in the sap evaporator.  Then there is the maple scented sauna steam that rises in the air, condenses on the ceiling beams and drips back down.  I have never smelled anything like it. And I was not expecting to be offered maple tea.  Louis dipped into the boiling sap in the evaporator, a liquid half way between clear watery sap and thick brown syrup, ladled it into a cup, and popped in a tea bag.  Heaven.  He offered to add rum, but I declined, though I did sample some from Ed's cup.  I was stupid to turn it down.

The operation uses a combination of old style equipment and new technology.  Each tree has old style taps and 12 quart buckets, just like Berta Reinhard used to use.  But Louis also uses a four wheel drive vehicle with a vacuum device to collect the sap.  In one field he also has a system of plastic tubing to collect sap, all of which empties into waiting collection tanks.  My impression was that Sohns invented many of the labor saving techniques himself.

Sohns seems genuinely pleased to meet new people and tell them his stories.  He hefted up this cross section of a windfall maple that he chopped and split to fuel the fire  in the evaporator.  He explained that each of the marks was a scar from a tap, a permanent mark for each spring season in the tree's long life.

OK, so what about bullsh*$% corners?  I've know for years that a nearby crossroads in the township had that earthy name, but Louis told us why.  Today the corner has a building that houses a weaver's retail establishment, but once the property was the location of the area creamery.  Local farmers would haul their milk there to be processed into cheese or butter, and would settle in with their neighbors to wait and shoot the breeze until it was ready.  Makes perfect sense.

So - an unexpected pleasure early in the season before the out of town tourists roll in.  It'll be a while before I forget the pleasure of drinking maple tea and soaking up stories.